PVC Playhouse & Sunshade: Mitered Bindings, Curtains, and Awnings

Making the mitered bindings for the windows sound intimidating, but it’s really easy:

1. Decide your window dimensions and cut the holes – I used 12.5″ x 12.5″ because I have a quilting ruler that size and it made cutting the window easy!
2. Cut lengths of double fold bias tape 1/2″ longer than the window opening with a 45° angle on each end.  The angle should be cut with the tape opening to the outside of the opening, and the angled cuts going outward.  The length measurement (13″ in my case) is the inside or shorter measurement of the angled cuts.
3. Now, open up the bias tape and with right sides together (RST) match up the ends and stitch together with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Stop with the needle down in each crease and pivot to follow the angles as closely as you can.
4. Trim seam allowance to about 1/8″.
5. Fold bias tape back closed, using a chopstick or point turner to push out the ends.

Ta-da!  You now have a mitered binding.  Repeat for all the other lengths of bias, making sure not to twist the binding.

Pin in place around window opening and sew close to the outer edge of the bias tape.  For the window “mullions”; or cross pieces, I used twill tape and folded each end over a couple of times and stitched down on the inside of the bias tape.  Sew a little box where the intersect to keep things from shifting around.

The round window is an easier version of the square window – I used a dinner plate as a template for the circle.  Sew down bias tape around the opening and attach the “mullions” in the same manner.

For the curtains, the cuts were 18″ x 22.5″ (1 yard quartered).  On each of the long sides, press 1/4″ under and then fold over another 1/4″ and press.  Sew close to the inside folded edge.  

For the top, press 1/4″ under and then fold over to 1″ and press.  Sew close to the inside folded edge.
For the bottom hem, press 1/4″ under and then fold over to 2″ and press.  Sew close to the inside folded edge.

Sew a basting stitch with the longest stitch length following the top seam and pull the bobbin thread to gather the curtains so each panel is 8″ wide.  Pin in place so the bottom of the curtains cover the window openings and the sides extend past the window openings by 2″.  Sew along the lines of stitches at the top.

I made tie backs later using some narrow double fold bias tape I had on hand.

For the awnings, I cut the striped fabric to 33″ x 17″.  The stripes on my fabric run parallel to the selvedge; if your fabric isn’t directional, your cuts may be slightly different, as I wanted the finished awnings to be longer than wide.

Fold fabric in half with RST and stitch around the opening with a 3/8″ seam allowance, leaving 3-4″ open for turning.  Clip corners and turn right side out.  Push corners and seams outward and press.  Stitch about 1/8″ from the edge.

Pin in place along the stitch line from where the curtains were attached, sandwiching lengths of bias tape (sewn shut with edges turned in) or ribbon underneath and on top of the awning to serve as ties.  Stitch down, trying to sew along the same line of stitching from sewing the awning closed and making sure the ruffles from the curtains are pushed up and out of the way.

All that’s left is to attach the walls and front awning and I’ll show you how to make sure the seams are sturdy and well-finished to stand up to unending hours of playtime!

Links to all tutorials:
PVC Frame
Fabric Requirements & Cuts
Sturdy Seams