Plum Pleats – Pinafore Top

This was part of my project for Week 3 of Shwin&Swhin’s Project Toddler Runway.  The challenge for this week was Feathers, Sequins & Fur, Oh My! – so we were to create something using one or all three.  I went ’round a bit on this one before settling on sequins; anyone need any faux giraffe?  I knew early on that I wanted to stay away from a dress for this one, and I’d been wanting to try to make pants – tutorial for those to follow shortly.  I thought a pinafore top would be fun to go with the pants as well as serving to keep my sanity, since pants aren’t simple.  With the addition of pleats and sequins, this ended up being more complex than my cute little ‘pinnies’ normally are.

Plum Pleats Pinafore Top

Skill Level – beginner
Items Needed
main fabric – 1/2 yard
reverse fabric – 1/2 yard
sequin trim – 2/3 yard
buttons
paper, scrap fabric, or pattern fabric
rotary cutter
quilting ruler
cutting mat
matching thread

Dimensions given are for a 2T dress.  Adjust measurements and fabric requirements accordingly to get desired size.  Sew with a 3/8″ or 1/2″ seam allowance; keeping the same allowance throughout the project.  I used a 1/2″ seam allowance.

1.  Create pinafore pattern.  I have a pinafore pattern that I love and have made several times.  The pattern crosses in the back and I like that, but I wanted to change things up a bit for this one.  I used an old sheet as pattern paper (my pattern fabric seems to have walked away) and extended the sweep of the bottom edge across the midpoint, and then angled back to match the strap from the front piece.
2.  Cut pieces.  Cut 2 of the back from each fabric, and one from each fabric on the fold for the front.  I did a big oopsie on my reverse fabric and thought I had it on the fold but it wasn’t.  I didn’t have enough of that fabric to cut another, so I pieced in a strip of the purple linen.  Now it’s a design feature!

3.  Make pleats.  Using a rotary cutter, cut 2 fabric strips 3″ wide from the width of the fabric.  Piece together to make one long strip.  Fold in half lengthwise wrong sides together and press.  Sew a basting stitch along the raw edge.  Pin your pleats in place.  I did mine by pinching the fabric 1 1/2″ from the edge of the previous pleat and bringing the pinch to rest along the edge of the previous pleat.  Sew down the pleats by following the basting stitch.
4.  Pin and sew shoulder seams.  With right sides of the main fabric together, pin and sew the shoulder seams only.  Repeat with reverse fabric.

5.  Pin and sew bottom edge.  Pin the main and reverse fabrics right sides together along the bottom edge, with the raw edge of the pleats aligned with the raw edges of the bottom and the pleats tucked up inside.  I didn’t want the pleats to continue past the side seam or stop ubruptly, so I curved the pleats to reveal less towards the edge, and then to be within the seam allowance for the last 1/2″.  Sorry I don’t have a picture to show this – I’m sure you can figure it out.
6.  Pin and sew all other seams except side seams.  Pin and sew main and reverse fabrics together along neck, back and underarms.  Do not sew the side seams.

7.  Notch seam allowance on inside curves.  Make sure not to clip the stitching.
8.  Turn right side out and press.  Make sure to work the fabric all the way out so the seams are at the edge, and not trapped inside the body of the garment.

9.  Pin and sew main fabric at side seams.   Align your side seams and pin the main fabric together, matching the seams at the armpit and the bottom edge.  I can draw the reverse fabric around about an inch or so on each end and sew that at the same time.  Repeat on opposite side.

10.  Tuck in seams and press.  Tuck the sewn seams to one side and press with raw edges inside.

11.  Topstitch side seam.  About 1/8″ from pressed edge.Topstitch pinafore.    Topstitch all edges about 1/8″ from edge.
12.  Add buttonholes and buttons.

Done!